Top 2 Civil War Things to Do

The Civil War is 150, which means four years of particularly robust re-enactments and a lot of new Civil War books. Even a CD or two.

Here are two things I recommend doing to tribute the occasion:

1. WATCH 'SHERMAN'S MARCH'

Do you know this 1986 documentary? At nearly three hours, it's way too long, but simply impossible to stop looking at once you start.

A heart-broken, deadpan-hilarious film-maker Ross McElwee (mostly behind the camera) wants to retrace the tragic figure of William Sherman on his (in)famous rampage through the South, a region he had loved and spent much time before the war. But McElwee's girlfriend dumps him after McElwee gets the film grant, so he ends up loosely following Sherman, while mostly flirting from behind the camera with a string of mesmerizingly bizarre southern women (a rocker, a 'prophet' actress, a Mormon, a hermit).

It is more a glimpse of '1981 South' -- when it was filmed -- than a Civil War doc. (The New York Times even called it a 'timely memoir of the '80s' in 1986!) Plus Burt Reynolds makes an unplanned cameo.

2. WATCH THIS

I made this two years ago at Gettysburg, and still await the answer on how Civil War re-enactors decide who dies first.

If pressed, I'd have to admit no one really knows.

76-Second Travel Show: 'How to be a Reenactor'

Episode #039
F E A T U R I N G * 7 2 * B O N U S * S E C O N D S

Last year, I traveled to Gettysburg to answer the immortal question: how do reenactors decide who dies first, in what order, during mock battles? I never really got a straight answer. And the 2009 version of the battle -- Gettysburg's legendary Pickett's Charge -- led to zero Confederate fatalities, unlike the real event which was a slaughter leading to bloodied gray uniforms. But I liked the reenactors. They meant what they did, were happy to share their world of wool uniforms on 100-degree days, and share why they did it.

This year I wanted more. And got 'INTO' the role, and see how it feels on the INSIDE of the world of reenactments. Well, a little.

Every July 8, Philadelphia quietly holds an annual reading of the Declaration of Independence at Independence National Historic Park with a couple dozen reenactors taunting and celebrating the document. And they were kind enough to sit aside some buckled shoes, knee pants and tri-cornered hat for me to wear. And, at a last-second debriefing of that reenactment plan, a ponytailed ranger asked for 'Loyalist' volunteers, and I naturally raised my hand.

It was fun. Yelling 'traitor!' and 'hang him!' before the Independence Hall. But it wasn't easy. Nerves swelled walking into the mass, where visitors quickly learned I supported the king, and let me know their disapproval, and with it the realization I don't know the history of the time as well as I should.

I asked why they did it, and one reenactor -- a ranger by day -- told me, 'Each year we have people say they didn't know that some people were against independence. That's pretty much the answer.'

Thanks to the park and Steven Edenbo, aka 'Thomas Jefferson.'

76-Second Travel Show: "What's the Deal with Pittsburgh?" (CANCELLED)

Episode #005

E X A C T L Y * 7 6 * S E C O N D S * ( B U T * C A N C E L L E D)

A recent visit to champion city (last year's Super Bowl and Stanley Cup ribbons reside in Pittsburgh) loomed with potential.

For once we could find out:

• How do locals enjoy the three rivers?
• When two rivers meet to make a third, isn't that really just two rivers?
• Why is the Ohio River named "Ohio" and not "Pennsylvania" (where it begins) or "Illinois" (where it ends)? Seriously.
• Why is there that "h" at the end of Pittsburgh? We noticed Charles Dickens spelled it "Pittsburg" in his book "American Notes." And he's the guy behind Tiny Tim.
• The history and background of the city any good?
  
• Hey, what's a great local diner for breakfast?
• Where does one see local concerts? Preferably outdoors?
  
• While we're at it, any interesting wall art or public sculptures to see?

But Pittsburgh, and in particular country star Kenny Chesney, did not cooperate with SSTS plans for a civic look into Pennsylvania's second-biggest city.

As a unsurprising result, the producers of the "76-Second Travel Show" ban Kenny Chesney and his agent from viewing or participating in our program for three months.

College Game Day: State College

Is State College the most literal city name of all time?
Personally I've always longed for the chance for three things:

* Designing a state or country flag
* Naming a sports franchise
* Designing the uniforms of a sports franchise

So when I see uninspired choices -- state quarters, the post-Soviet Russian flag, the Oklahoma City Thunder!? -- I get uppity.

Generally speaking, I don't consider the common usage of literal, untextured, seemingly 'uninspired' nomenclature choices as a bad thing. While '[State] City' is an obvious choice (the New York Citys, the Oklahoma Citys), you have to respect state-named cities that are situated outside that state's borders (eg Colorado City, AZ; Nevada City, CA; Kansas City, MO).

State College brings that to another level. Home to Pennsylvania State University, State College is outrageously literal. Even College Station, Texas -- the home of A&M (and a '12th guy' apparently, whatever that means) -- is a little more playful. What's more, State College backs it up with the most back-to-basics uniform of all time: Penn State's white helmet with navy blue stripe. (Notre Dame at least has a shiny helmet.)

And I like that. Even if the "white out" the fans get excited over doesn't apply to the team, who will wear dark blue jerseys. Or that they defy the Winnipeg Jets' trademark to "white out."

This week Penn State hosts Iowa and the ESPN's CollegeGameDay crew. Here's my article on State College's other travel draws for ESPN.

I'd love to go to a game -- I've only driven through -- but next time I'm back I'm definitely stopping for ice cream and a late-night 'sticky.'

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Prediction:
Penn State 22, Iowa 7
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And who wins as a destination? State College or Iowa City?

Iowa City is near some interesting sights -- I really enjoyed seeing Herbert Hoover's home, a half-hour drive away. The campus is nice. I had some veggie curry and saw bad rock bands playing by the river. But actually found other parts of Iowa more inspiring -- like the Loess Hills near Nebraska, or (particularly) the gorgeous Mississippi River Valley around Dubuque (which has a funicular train). Iowa City points: 13

State College has its moments, often drunken or high in cholesterol, but the nearby bike paths and mountains to climb are hard to argue with. I've been going to the area all my life. My mom was born in Franklin, just west. State College points: 17

--> State College beats Iowa City as destination, 17-13.

How do Civil War Re-enactors Pick Who Dies First?

WHAT TRAVEL TEACHES

If you're like me at all, you've spent countless nights burning trying to solve an immortal question: at Civil War and other battle re-enactments, who dies first? Are newbloods asked to shed theirs as the cannonballs begin to fly? Or do those tardy with dues drop early? Or is it just the unlucky, the worn out, or -- after a few days camping in a hot summer -- the stinky?


Last month, I attended the 146th anniversary of the Battle of Gettsyburg, in south-central Pennsylvania, to find out. I wasn't sure how I'd be received. At an open field a few miles from the actual field, I joined hundreds of troops in gray and blue, and as many observers drinking cold lemonade, shopping for hats and toy rifles, or listening to period music played under field tents. A historian from the nearby Gettysburg National Military Park -- which is wonderful to visit -- translated the scene of rows of soldiers on horseback tangled in sword clash and fake gunpowder from rifle shots. "There's much confusion out there."

As an Okie with a few Confederate swords in my family's collective attic, I gravitated towards the southern campsite between a couple skirmishes on the last of the three-day event. And I was surprised to hear half hailed from north of the Mason Dixon Line.

A younger northern re-enactor assumed the character of "Harrison Reed," who left his family in Albany to fight in gray. "I haven't spoken to them since '61," he said squinting into mid-day sun. One goateed dad (there were many) from upstate New York, Todd Smith, said he sided with the south because "they're more fun." His 12-year-old would be carrying the colors into a Pickett's Charge later that day, he said proudly despite both of their low chance of survival. (The Confederates saw high casualties in that disastrous attack.)

Everyone was united in why they were doing it -- for the bond with each other ("it's like a camping trip," one said; another: "you should hear the stories around the campfire at night") and more importantly a deep respect for military, past and present.

Patrick Jones, from Virginia, has been doing this for 10 years "to celebrate my three ancestors who fought for the south, and honor all those who gave their lives for what they thought was right." Did his ancestors die during the war? "No. One disappeared though," he said laughing. "And one finally surrendered two months after the war was over."

And in terms of how they pick who dies? Here's the confusing clarity:



One re-enactor suggested I could get started for "about $1000" -- that is if I wanted the full regalia and a big tent, all period-piece style. "We're everywhere, groups like us. Let me know and I'll hook you up." I might.

My New Travel Role: The Daddy Traveler

A year ago at this time, I was paddling in a homemade kayak in remote Kamchatka, Russia's volcano-filled peninsula dangling in Alaska’s face. I traveled with a crew of five locals far crustier than I am. We hiked along bear trails, swatted away thousands of mosquitoes, and dove into breath-takingly cold streams we drank from. We ate freshly caught fish filets and packed steaks by hand, and drank the wine and vodka until it was gone.

This year, I spent July 4th at a boutique hotel in central Philadelphia, walking by Independence Hall, buying a ‘Don’t Tread on Me’ flag for $5, and sitting with a enormous sundae and watching the July 4th parade, politely cheering on men in funny colonial hats. I took an afternoon nap. And skipped the free Sheryl Crow/fireworks show that night to stay in and eat take-out food (again without utensils, actually).

And I had a great time.

Daughter Ruby joined wife and me on what’s considered ‘Obama Day’ for most – January 20, 2009 – but we never stopped traveling. Nor do we plan to. We’ve just made a few adjustments.

For starters, we’re now 9-to-5 tourists. Some babies can sleep anywhere, and Lonely Planet's new Traveling with Children talks of the relative freedom of infant travelers versus toddlers, but Ruby prefers not sleeping in a stroller. That means no 7pm dinners out for us, but we don't complain, considering she's willing to sleep a solid 12 hours a night.

We’re also sticking far closer to home here in New York City. Before my wife’s maternity leave ended, we took advantage of softened off-season, mid-week rates for a couple New York State’s Hudson River Valley house rentals. We ate dinners in, and filled days with leisurely drives, some shopping and a walk or two. At the first trip near Woodstock, we rather disturbed to see Ruby grow calm when Phish played in one café (Ruby, pink hair is fine, but please no Phish!). The other was spent driving along the Delaware River and stopping in a great vintage printing press company in Jeffersonville.

More ‘adventurous’ trips came in month four. We flew to Pittsburgh for a few days (and she flies free for two years!), and managed to introduce Ruby to Andy Warhol at his museum and some bearded Detroit Red Wings (staying at the same hotel for the Stanley Cup), then hung out with 20-something beer drinkers docking their party boats on downtown walkways, and took a side trip to Frank Lloyd Wright’s wonderful Fallingwater – my wife and I taking turns with Ruby as the other took the 60-minute tour (no little ones allowed in). We capped our three nights in Philadelphia with a day mingling with Civil War re-enactors at Gettysburg. However, Ruby appears to be less impressed with hockey or soldier beards than other aspects of travel.

What I’ve learned is that it’s best to base yourself in comfortable 'hub stations' – hopefully hotels or rental homes with more than one room to allow night-time TV at least – and spend a couple hours mid-day for nap and break. This probably means no B&B trips across the Alps or a trip to take in London theater soon, but spending a week with a rental car at a Tuscan or Provence villa isn’t out of the question.

Also, we’ve seen Ruby become a big ice-breaker to meeting locals – even more successful than the ol’ walking-the-dog trick. We’re now stopped on sidewalks by chatty locals and mingling with neighboring tables at restaurants. In Philadelphia, we met a visiting couple from Spain who offered to guide us around their town if we go.

Trips as a family three-pack is a new travel for us – for me in particular – but one with its own brand of rewards. Seeing Ruby kick and flail and giggle in glee as parade drummers passed, or when a colorfully costumed Bolivian dancer broke from the lines to pose with her for a video (see the video here), beats a kayak trip in the wild. At least for awhile.

--> Fellow Daddy Travelers, please join my 'Daddy Traveler' group at Lonely Planet's website so we can share tips, bumpy tales and surprising successes.